Photo Credits: Isidore Montag
It’s not every day that the discovery of ancient frescoes in Pompeii aligns so perfectly with the themes of a contemporary fashion collection. Yet, in a serendipitous turn of events, archeologists recently uncovered frescoes depicting the initiation rites of Dionysus’s followers—those wild revelers who worshipped the Greek god of wine, festivity, and religious ecstasy. The timing couldn’t have been more fortuitous for Fausto Puglisi, who took this very theme as the cornerstone of his Fall/Winter 2025 collection for Roberto Cavalli. The designer has always had a deep admiration for the ancient city of Pompeii, having first visited as a child, and this season, he brings his youthful awe to the runway with a celebration of its ancient art, culture, and spirit.
Much like Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who frequently draw inspiration from Italy’s rich cultural heritage, Puglisi has taken to celebrating iconic locations across the country during his tenure at Roberto Cavalli. Whether it was the marble quarries of Carrara or his Sicilian hometown of Messina, Puglisi’s designs have often paid tribute to Italy’s diverse landscapes and storied past. For Fall/Winter 2025, Pompeii itself was the muse, offering a wealth of visual inspiration that spans from the city’s ancient lava flows and frescoes to its native flora and fauna.
Photo Credits: Isidore Montag
Photo Credits: Isidore Montag
As expected, Puglisi’s expertise in prints and textures brought these references to life in an array of rich, tactile fabrics. Lava patterns intertwined with intricate depictions of Pompeii’s surviving murals, while sumptuous animal prints—always a signature of the Cavalli brand—made their inevitable appearance, a reminder of the house’s deep ties to the wild and untamed. Indeed, Puglisi’s interpretation of Cavalli still honors the brand’s legacy, but with a lighter, more nuanced touch than when he first arrived at the label four years ago. The maximalist sensibility for which Cavalli was once known is present, though in this collection, it feels tempered by a sense of restraint, as Puglisi experiments with softer, even sweeter iterations of the brand’s opulence.
The collection, at its heart, reflects an evolution for Cavalli, moving away from overt excess toward a more sophisticated sensuality. Puglisi explored this balance through pieces like the velvet dévoré dresses, which featured 3D nature-inspired embroideries—delicate, yet undeniably luxurious. These garments, with their tactile richness, suggested an understated beauty that contrasted the bold exuberance Cavalli is traditionally known for, nodding to a more intimate and introspective vision of glamour.
However, Puglisi has by no means abandoned the spirit of decadence and drama that Cavalli is famous for. His design mood board for this season included not only the frescoes of Pompeii, but also images of Hollywood’s golden age, with particular reference to the glamorous costumes of Adrian, the legendary costume designer known for his exaggerated silhouettes and sartorial exuberance. This influence was most apparent in the sharply tailored jackets and shirts, where ’40s-inspired shoulders were given the kind of bold, sculptural treatment that was reminiscent of Adrian’s work. There was no denying the cinematic flair that infused the collection, merging the ancient with the modern in a dynamic juxtaposition of references.
Photo Credits: Isidore Montag
In keeping with the Dionysian theme, Puglisi’s “gals” are the embodiment of the fearless, liberated women celebrated in Pompeii’s frescoes—the kind of women who, according to Gabriel Zuchtriegel, the director of the Pompeii archeological park, “break free from male order to dance freely, go hunting, and eat raw meat in the mountains and the woods.” It’s a daring, untamed spirit that Puglisi has captured in his designs, with free-spirited, powerful women in mind. This season, his Cavalli woman is bold, independent, and unafraid to embrace the wild Dionysian energy that has always characterized the brand.
In this Fall/Winter 2025 collection, Fausto Puglisi succeeds in combining the ancient with the contemporary, celebrating both the power of nature and the sensuality of the human form. The collection is a fitting tribute to Pompeii’s vibrant legacy, capturing the spirit of the ancient world while also pushing the boundaries of modern fashion. It is a testament to the enduring allure of Cavalli and Puglisi’s ability to breathe new life into the brand’s legacy, creating pieces that are both timeless and audacious in equal measure.
