Photo Credits: Isidore Montag
In a delightful collision of whimsical inspiration and high fashion, Jonny Johansson’s fall 2025 collection for Acne Studios drew from Björk’s iconic track Human Behavior—specifically its surreal music video featuring bear protagonists. Johansson found himself captivated by the video’s mix of fantasy and natural instincts, and it served as a guiding force for this inventive collection. But rather than simply paying homage to Björk’s song, Johansson managed to transform its essence into a line brimming with tactile textures, playful proportions, and a healthy dose of surrealism.
Photo Credits: Isidore Montag
The collection’s bear theme was evident in the plush, mohair bodies and fuzzy Steiff-fabric coats, which brought the stuffed-toy-like bears to life. These garments were notable for their exaggeratedly articulated shoulders and upper arms, evoking the limbs of a beloved childhood toy. But this wasn’t just a costume; Johansson cleverly incorporated these “bear” shapes into contemporary tailoring, with checkered fabrics adding a level of sophistication to the fun.
The show’s true standout moments lay in the juxtaposition of playful and wearable pieces. Oversized felt boots were paired with semi-sheer chiffon dresses adorned with a bear monogram, creating a whimsical silhouette that still felt highly wearable. Other items included fringed denim separates, slightly threadbare for a lived-in feel, and full-length sheath dresses featuring a bear print—further nodding to the playful, fuzzy theme.
Photo Credits: Isidore Montag
Despite the overwhelming influence of the animal kingdom, there was no shortage of high-fashion elements. Ladylike knits in boiled wool were posed with similarly refined boiled leather shirting, creating a striking balance between softness and structure. PVC-wrapped denim, wrapped sensually around the body like a corset, hinted at a vampy edge, softened by oversized bows placed strategically on various pieces.
Photos Credits: Acne Studios Instagram/ Isidore Montag
In addition to these reimagined textiles, Johansson brought a sense of surrealism to the collection with accessories like oversized photographer’s bags with faux fur attachments, and thigh-high leather boots with ostrich pattern puckering. A standout accessory, however, was a set of items that mixed the practical with the whimsical: a baby blue and pink chiffon dress fronted by gymnast-style hairpin ribbons, an effect that was as dynamic as it was dreamlike.
Perhaps the most striking element of Johansson’s latest offering was how he brought together seemingly contradictory elements: the stark urbanity of Acne Studios’ sleek, modern sensibility, and the cozy, rural allure of nature’s softness and simplicity. A set design that contrasted towering skyscraper shapes with tapestry-covered river stones underscored this duality—the balance between urban knowingness and rural naturalness that Johansson has long navigated.
Photo Credits: Acne Studios Instagram
Photos Credits: Isidore Montag
In this collection, Johansson’s playful nod to Björk’s bear protagonist was nothing short of a triumph. The charming surrealism of the bear imagery was offset by truly covetable pieces—stylish, creative, and deeply infused with an air of irreverence. With Human Behavior as a creative backbone, Johansson managed to conjure an irresistible runway of wearable fantasy, transforming whimsical thoughts into fashion-forward realities.
Photo Credits: Isidore Montag
