Photo Credit: Courtesy of Khaite

In a season often characterized by extravagance and unbridled creativity, Catherine Holstein of Khaite took a daring step into a more conceptual approach with her Fall/Winter 2025 collection. Known for her innate ability to create wardrobe staples that appeal to a discerning clientele, Holstein’s designs have already garnered a cult following. From the coveted Nevada boots to her Simona shoulder bags and timeless denim pieces, Khaite’s success has always been rooted in a highly wearable, elevated product. However, this season, the designer infused her collection with a deliberate narrative, one that tapped into cinematic inspiration and offered a tantalizing glimpse into her artistic evolution.

The theme, inspired by the films of David Lynch, was a bold choice, but one that felt deeply personal. Holstein, an avowed Lynch fan, has long admired the filmmaker’s resistance to external pressures and his commitment to doing things his own way. At a preview in her sleek SoHo showroom, Holstein shared how Lynch’s work resonated with her, not only for its distinct visual language but also for his insistence on remaining true to his vision — a sentiment that clearly mirrors her own journey as a designer. The reference was palpable, especially when considering the critiques Holstein has faced over the years — both for the grandiosity of her runway sets and the statement-making nature of her designs. Yet, rather than bending to these pressures, she has chosen to forge ahead with confidence.

Photo Credit: Courtsey of Khaite

Khaite’s Fall/Winter show took place once again at the Park Avenue Armory, an iconic venue that added layers of drama and ambition to the spectacle. The elevated circular runway, placed strategically at the center of the vast space, was not just a physical structure but a symbol of the brand’s burgeoning success and Holstein’s growing aspirations. Although some in the audience might have missed the subtle nod, the golden hue of the runway evoked the mythical Yellow Brick Road, a direct reference to The Wizard of Oz — Lynch’s favorite film. This visual cue was one of many ways Holstein connected the collection to a cinematic dreamscape, albeit one tinged with the gritty, raw energy of New York City.

Holstein’s affinity for Lynch’s world was apparent in the bold use of leather, a material frequently seen in Wild at Heart, and in the playful leopard-spot pony skin separates that emerged on the runway. There were also traces of Lynch’s flair for period drama, especially in the voluminous, lightly bustled dresses and the undone corset tops, which carried a sense of nostalgia, yet felt thoroughly modern. These romantic pieces were balanced with more grounded, street-inspired looks, such as the loose-fit dark rinse jeans that appeared throughout the show. In particular, the opening look — a deconstructed corset worn over a boxy tee — was an arresting nod to the everyday fashion of New York, combining a high-concept, cinematic aesthetic with street-level realism.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Khaite

However, the challenge for Holstein has always been to make her ready-to-wear as effortlessly wearable as her accessories, which have already achieved near-legendary status. There was a time when her runway collections veered toward the theatrical, occasionally feeling more suited for a film set than for daily life. This season, however, Holstein seemed to find a delicate balance. While her signature cinematic flair remained intact, the inclusion of easy-to-wear, practical pieces like smart trousers paired with fine gauge knits, and structured leather jackets of varying shapes, brought a refreshing sense of groundedness to the collection.

The standout moments, however, came from the subtle, DIY-inspired touches that Holstein wove into the designs. Mismatched tacks adorning the back of a distressed leather jacket and unraveling silk corset tops were both striking and intimately human. These design elements injected a sense of authenticity into the collection, offering a rare glimpse of the designer’s personal touch amid the polished luxury for which Khaite is known. The unraveling silk, in particular, presented a cool alternative to traditional eveningwear, showcasing Holstein’s ability to merge high fashion with a raw, almost tactile edge.

In an industry often dominated by corporate-driven European houses, Holstein’s ability to inject personality and a sense of realness into her designs is what sets Khaite apart. If she can continue to infuse the human element — the heart — into her work, she will undoubtedly carve out an even stronger identity in the fashion world. This season, Holstein reminded us that fashion, at its best, is not just about clothes but about storytelling, craftsmanship, and the courage to push boundaries.

Photos Credits: Hunter Abrams

While Khaite’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection was undoubtedly influenced by the enigmatic world of David Lynch, it was ultimately a reflection of Holstein’s own creative journey. It was a celebration of both her cinematic aspirations and the grounded reality of New York, offering a powerful reminder that fashion, like film, can be both a fantasy and a mirror to our everyday lives. As Khaite continues to evolve, it’s clear that Catherine Holstein’s ability to blend art and authenticity will keep her firmly in the spotlight.

Photos Credits: Courtesy of Khaite

Photo Credits: Courtesy of Khaite