Photo Credits: Salvatore Dragone Via Vogue Runway
High above the bustling streets of New York, on the 48th floor of the Solow Building, Carolina Herrera’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection unveiled itself in a setting that could only be described as breathtaking. Perched over the snow-covered expanse of Central Park, the view was a visual metaphor for the airbrushed perfection that the brand has long embodied. The city’s noise, its grime, and the daily grind of the commute were distant echoes, replaced by the serene tranquility that defined this presentation.
Wes Gordon, who has taken the helm of Carolina Herrera, has cultivated an unmistakable connection with the house’s quintessential uptown elegance, all while breathing new life into its designs for a younger, modern generation.
Photo Credits: Umberto Fratini// Salvatore Dragone
The show was staged amid an ethereal garden of 3,000 cherry-red ranunculus, a striking homage to the 1979 film Being There, in which Peter Sellers portrayed a simple gardener, Chance, whose naïve yet profound thoughts about life made a lasting impression. Gordon, who first encountered the film as a young boy, reflected on the message that struck him most: “As long as the roots are not severed, all is well and all will be well.”
This poignant quote became the guiding metaphor for the collection, representing the continuity of the brand’s heritage and its evolution under Gordon’s vision. In a sense, this garden of ranunculus, blooming in the heart of the Solow Building, symbolized Gordon’s task of nurturing Carolina Herrera’s legacy while adapting it to the sensibilities of today’s fashion landscape.
Photo Credits: Umberto Fratini
The garden theme played a natural role in the collection, with floral elements woven throughout. The iconic florals that have long defined the brand were elevated with contemporary flair. Vines of flowers adorned a strapless evening gown, climbing up its bodice like nature’s own embroidery, while floral prints and jacquard fabrics decorated various silhouettes. Golden brooches, resembling flowers, were pinned to lapels, further reinforcing the motif.
However, the most striking of all was the singular large flower that blossomed at the waistband of the sleek black trousers that opened the show — a bold statement of modern femininity and sophistication.
Photo Credits: Umberto Fratini// Salvatore Dragone
Gordon himself noted, “It’s definitely the sexiest and sharpest I’ve done with Herrera,” and his statement rings true. The collection indeed marked a new, more sensual direction for the brand, without sacrificing its signature elegance. A pinstriped jacket was sliced at the midriff, revealing a daring yet refined cut that felt undeniably fresh.
Gordon also opted for long, narrow skirts paired with bandeau tops, a striking departure from the more traditional shirts and blouses typically seen at Herrera. While the iconic white button-down shirt — a staple of the brand — remained, Gordon reinterpreted it by cutting it oversized and tunic-length, pairing it with delicate Chantilly lace cage skirts. The result was a juxtaposition of classic elements and contemporary flair, reflecting the modern woman’s duality of grace and strength.
Photo Credits: Umberto Fratini
Despite the undeniable success of the collection, there were moments where a bit of “pruning” could have enhanced the overall narrative. While some of the double-breasted suits and voluminous pants looked sophisticated, they did not quite evoke the youthful energy that Gordon highlighted elsewhere in the show. A more refined approach to tailoring could have better aligned with the youthful exuberance that Gordon emphasized through other elements, particularly in the daring and sharp silhouettes he unveiled.
However, these slight missteps did little to detract from the overall strength of the collection. Gordon succeeded in crafting a narrative that was both rooted in Carolina Herrera’s refined history and enriched by his own sense of modernity. The collection proved that it is possible to cultivate an aesthetic that is both timeless and fresh, elegant and daring.
Photo Credits: Salvatore Dragone
In many ways, this collection felt like the perfect blend of careful pruning and exuberant growth — the flowers were in full bloom, but with the careful nurturing of someone who understands both the beauty of tradition and the promise of innovation.
As Carolina Herrera moves forward under Wes Gordon’s leadership, this collection solidified his ability to balance uptown elegance with a youthful energy. The garden metaphor, though subtle, was ever-present, with Gordon tending to the house’s legacy with a steady hand while infusing it with new vitality.
His Fall/Winter 2025 collection proved that Herrera, like a well-cultivated garden, will continue to flourish — offering a sophisticated vision for a new generation, one where the roots of tradition remain firmly planted, even as the blossoms of innovation stretch towards the future.
Photo Credits: Umberto Fratini// Salvatore Dragone
